My great aunt made this when money was tight and now my whole family begs for it every spring. The cheapest cut makes the richest meal

When my great aunt talked about the lean years, she didn’t dwell on what they didn’t have; she bragged about what she could coax out of a cheap cut and a slow simmer. These pork neck bones were her springtime special, when a little meat money had to stretch around planting season. Four humble ingredients, an old slow cooker, and time turn the cheapest cut into a pot of rich, glossy broth and tender meat that slips right off the bone. It’s the kind of Depression-era thrift that still tastes like a feast, and nowadays my family asks for it every spring as soon as the fields start greening up.

Serve these slow-cooked neck bones ladled straight from the crock into shallow bowls, making sure everyone gets plenty of that dark, savory broth. They’re wonderful over mashed potatoes, egg noodles, or plain white rice to soak up the juices. A side of buttered peas, green beans, or simple coleslaw keeps it true to its farm-kitchen roots. Put a basket of soft dinner rolls or thick slices of white bread on the table for dipping, and don’t be shy about setting out a little vinegar or hot sauce for those who like a tangy kick.

Servings: 4

3 to 3 1/2 pounds pork neck bones, meaty, rinsed and patted dry

Scatter the sliced onions in an even layer across the bottom of a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. This makes a soft, sweet bed that keeps the meat off the very bottom and melts into the broth as it cooks.

Season the pork neck bones on all sides with the salt and pepper, rubbing it in with your hands so it sticks to the meat and into the little crevices around the bone.

Arrange the seasoned neck bones on top of the onions in the slow cooker, piling them in snugly so they fit in a single, fairly even layer. The meat will give off plenty of its own juices, so no extra liquid is needed.

Cover the slow cooker with the lid and cook on LOW for 8 to 10 hours, or on HIGH for 4 to 5 hours, until the neck bones are deeply browned, the meat is very tender, and it pulls away from the bones with just a fork.

Once cooked, carefully skim off any excess fat from the surface of the dark, glossy broth if you like, leaving enough to keep the sauce rich and silky. Gently stir the onions up into the liquid; they should be soft and almost melted into the sauce.

Taste the broth and add a pinch more salt or pepper if needed. Serve the neck bones hot, spooning plenty of the collagen-rich cooking liquid and softened onions over each portion.

If you’d like a touch more body, you can stir a spoonful of flour or cornstarch into a bit of cold water and whisk it into the hot cooking liquid on the stovetop to make a thicker gravy, but my great aunt usually served it just as a rich broth. For a little extra flavor without breaking the 4-ingredient spirit, some cooks like to tuck in a bay leaf or a smashed garlic clove, or finish the dish with a splash of apple cider vinegar at the table to cut through the richness. You can also cool the meat in the broth, then pick it off the bones and stir it back in for an easier-to-eat, stew-like dish to serve over noodles or rice. If you’re watching sodium, reduce the salt and season more lightly at the start, then adjust at the end. For food safety, keep the neck bones refrigerated until you’re ready to cook, and don’t leave them sitting out at room temperature for more than 1 to 2 hours. Make sure the slow cooker stays covered and on the proper setting; the meat should reach at least 165°F internally, though it will usually go higher as it braises. Cool leftovers promptly, store them in the refrigerator within 2 hours, and use within 3 to 4 days, reheating until steaming hot before serving. Because of the bones and any small cartilage pieces, remind children and older family members to eat slowly and watch for bits of bone in their portions.